WHY WE USE KHAIRPEP SERUM INSTEAD OF A 'PLEX'
We get this question so often in the salon. So let me explain our thoughts on this... first things first, the reason we love this product so much is the fact that it takes no extra time.
We are finding in this day and age, people are time poor, and colour techniques are a lot more labor intensive and time consuming. So adding that extra 20 - 40 mins to your colour service is not really an option for most working people.
During the Covid pandemic and the necessary social spacing protocol, we just don’t have the basin or chair space to be able to accommodate clients in the salon for unnecessarily long services.
When we have the option of using this amazing leave in product that takes no extra time and produces superior results why would we go for the other option?
With the Khairpep serum, you are using it side by side with your colour, NOT in your colour, so you don't have to increase your peroxide strength or timing when colouring - that's a safer, gentler approach for your hair and your scalp.
HOW DOES KHAIRPEP WORK? THE SCIENCE EXPLAINED.
At Chumba, we love hair science and learning the ins and outs of each product we use. We are big time 'hair geeks' lol!
Khairpep K18 contain 18 of 23 amino acids, it works to reconnect broken keratin chains by carrying amino acids back into the core of the hair and restoring the hair's overall integrity, adding shine and improving elasticity.
The peptides work as bond donor to the broken Disulfide bonds inside the hair. Once those bonds are repaired, the next time you use the Khairpep, it moves to the next broken bonds to repair them, and so on.
Heat styling and colouring affect the elasticity and porosity and pH levels of the hair and can cause bonds to break. Both 'plex' products and Khairpep work to repair the hair in slightly different ways.
Because the Khairpep behaves like a donor to the broken bonds, once repaired, it will not wash out. So, if a client chooses to not continue using Khairpep at home, the work you have had done during your colour service won’t wash out or be undone…
With a plex on the other hand, it works like a bridge to repair the bond of the hair. If you do not continue using no.3 or the take home products, that bridge will eventually wash and wear away and you will be left with the hair condition being back to where you started before using the plex.
This is not a green light to go crazy and use it like a band aid and push the hair past what you normally would and risk breaking the hair - nothing is that magic that will fix poor decisions from your colourist. But definitely by using Khairpe your hair will be stronger which gives you far more options in which colour services can be done in the salon.
Using the Khairpep masque at home, post colour service, instead of a conditioner at least once a week will help with colour fading, porosity and create stronger hair.
I’ve seen with my own eyes clients who have fine, blonde hair that doesn’t grow past a certain point. Using Khairpep mask at home between visits, the result is thicker, stronger hair that grows again, instead of splitting and breaking on the ends, from over styling etc.
Both products have their place in corrective services however with different results.
KHAIRPEP FOR 'HAIR NERDS'
For all the hair nerds out there that love this info as much as us Chumba hair nerds do, the pH level of natural hair is around 4.5- 5.5
The pH of the serum spray is 7.3 and masque is 5.4
When we colour the hair or do a chemical service, you alter the pH of the hair and if the hair is too alkaline or too acidic it can cause many problems.
If the hair is too alkaline, the cuticle is left open and that can lead to colour fading and damage.
If the hair is too acidic, the cuticle can be too tightly pacted and that can effect colour penetration.
So in saying that, what we are wanting to do is change the pH of the hair both before colouring and after colouring to create longevity and try and get the hair back down to the natural level as much as possible.
HOW TO USE KHAIRPEP K18 SERUM
There are a number of different ways to use the Khairpep serum, If the hair is very porous and compromised, prior to mixing your colour, spray the Khairpep serum evenly into the hair section by section and then brush through.
Usually 7-15 sprays is enough however if the hair is super thick you may need more. Highly porous hair is thirsty and will soak it all up.
Then after spraying it in, we usually go mix up our colour as you need to wait 4 minutes before applying colour over the top.
If you’re just looking to strengthen and even out the porosity of the hair before colouring, get a water spray, hold it above the head and lightly MIST into the air, letting the water fall onto the hair, rather than drenching the hair with a direct spray.
This will start swelling the hair to help soak the serum in more evenly. Then spray the serum section by section, brush through and go and mix your colour. You do not want to soak the hair and try to colour over the top.
We also use the serum a lot on damp hair at the basin before toning or doing basin balayages. Doing this helps to even the porosity and strengthen the hair.
In this case we towel dry well, evenly spray, brush through hair gently with a detangling brush and then go mix our colour. By the time we get back it’s been 4 mins and it’s time to start applying.
For pre-colour use, we recommend to use the serum instead of the masque as the masque must be used on damp hair to penetrate into the hair.
After your colour is rinsed, where you would usually condition, you can instead towel dry the hair and apply your Khairpep masque to finish off with.This will condition and seal down the cuticle, it will help bring the pH of the hair back down and detangle and strengthen hair.
Massage it in and do not rinse or use conditioner afterwards. Head back to the chair to cut or style. You may apply styling products on top after waiting 4 mins for the product to do is magic.
I LOVE using this before styling as it can help to make unruly hair more manageable to cut down my blow drying time!
WHAT COLOUR SERVICES SHOULD YOU USE THE KHAIRPEP WITH?
At Chumba we recommend using the Khairpep serum with these colour services:
- Pre-colour for our blonde balayage clients.
- Clients coming in just for a toner, to even out the porosity.
- 'Foilage' clients, clients who have both foils and balayage.
- Basin balayages.
- Post lightening services and pre-toning to give us a strong even canvas.
- Scalp lightening services if they have a very small regrowth and it’s impossible not to get a tiny overlap.
- Corrective lightening services eg. on a client we have inherited with compromised hair where we may need to get rid of banding etc.
- If we are scalp lightening and then need to 0.00 the ends to remove brights and pastel colours or brighten the ends a shade or 2.
- If we have a client with brown hair that has banding or over lapped darker ends that are porous. Also, bands that need to be 0.00'ed out to give a level or two of lift.
- We would NOT however use it before colour if the hair is perfectly healthy, if the hair is natural or we’re just doing a regrowth tint or lightener in this case we would just finish with the Khairpep masque at the end of the service.
- You can also use the Khairpep serum before perming to strengthen the hair. The client can use the masque at home program afterwards.
- Before chemical straightening eg. Japanese straightening. The same as if you would a perm, you are changing the internal structure of the hair by breaking down the sulfur bonds. Using this beforehand and at home will improve elasticity and strengthen the hair.
HOW MUCH EXTRA WILL KHAIRPEP COST WITH MY COLOUR SERVICE?
We find that because it is a reasonably priced product, and on most clients you are only using 2 ml or 4 ml each time, there’s no rinsing or rigorous basin rituals -and because Khairpep is as fast than using conditioner, we can make it an affordable extra step most clients to add Khairpep to their service.
Each client gets quoted prior to their service and given the option.
We also find that once someone has tried the masque a few times, they fall in love with it and how it makes the hair feel, how their curls sit and how it's easier to style. So much so that they want it to use at home. The K18 Masque is by far the highest selling product we have in the salon…
For at home use, the Khairpep K18 Serum does not have the same conditioning and detangling properties that the masque. However, it’s an amazing product for people who have super fine, lank or oily hair and hate to use conditioner, but need extra strength to their hair.
It's also great for people who have coloured hair to give their hair oomf and also for people who have fine grey hair or aging hair around the ages of 45 and up that need volume and lift and strength. (still use masque for coarse unruly grey hair though.)
Author - Colleen Stanford is a part of the Creative Team at Chumba's Chapel St, Windsor Salon
The Colour Guru - Think 'Plastic Surgeon for your Hair'
Way back when Chumba Windsor was born in 2008 there was a moment... these moments makes or breaks an entire company.That moment was when a skater looking girl blew in our door looking a bit lost in Melb's.
We job reference people of course - her reference said "Colleen will be the best thing that has ever happened to your salon" - and so she is... for twelve years & counting ❤︎
She is the literally the best and the actual Rock that Chumba Windsor is built upon.
By way of Byron Bay home town of all Guru types, this cutting edge stylist can Colour your World and then some. 'Co(o)l' is a Creative Team member that leads the Chumba to push to the bleeding edge of hair in Chapel St. So by definition she is the coolest chick on the strip.
Have you got a tough Colour 'fix up' , 'save it', 'funk it' or 'change it' job? This is Your girl - just smile, nod and say 'go for it'.
If there's a better Correction Goddess out there somewhere it'd be news to us.
Just to add to her fully booked existence Co(o)l hits the road non stop around Australia with Queen B to educate and inspire other Hairdresser with her supernatural Colouring Powers.